Tag Archives: history

I never met my maternal grandfather, until today

I like history. I like flying. I like learning about my ancestry. I never met my mother’s father. He was in an airplane that disappeared about the time my mom was 11. He had been at Pearl Harbor when it was attacked. And, the purpose of this today, he was part of the ground crew when the dirigible Hindenburg exploded at Naval Air Station Lakehurst in New Jersey.

Memorial Sign
Hindenburg Memorial Site, NAS Lakehurst, NJ

My mother was born at Lakehurst about six months after the disaster. I’ve long wanted to visit the site, but it’s never worked out. Until now.

Hindenburg at Lakehurst the year before. This huge hangar still exists.

I’m in Philadelphia for a couple days as I write this. I had a few days notice, so I did some quick research on Hindenburg and how far it was to Lakehurst. It was a doable trip.

In 2017 I visited a village where ancestors left Germany to settle in the US. Earlier this year I met descendants of the part of the family that didn’t move. I did not know my maternal grandfather, of course, but I did meet one brother and one sister. My mom died at age 50 when I was just 28, so I have a gap on that side of the family.

Crossing the Atlantic by air was an expensive and glamorous way to travel back in the days before airliners. But that all came to a stop on May 6, 1937. Boom. Done. One series of many improbable conditions resulted in a huge accident, a change in business models, and 86 years later provided a chance for me to connect with my more recent past.

My charter captain and I drove to Lakehurst from Philadelphia. I drove. He navigated. The memorial is easy to find. It’s a huge open space next to a hangar designed to hold an airship. We parked and walked out across a huge field that appeared to be made scraps of asphalt covered with pea gravel.

When you see pictures of Hindenburg burning or watch a video of the news footage, you see people on the ground. The ground crew was there to pull down on ropes hanging from the airship and manually haul it down and to the mooring mast. Important for me is that one of those figures you see was my grandfather. I don’t know which one. I don’t know what his role was. But, 86 years later I have now walked the same ground he walked that day. I have seen the same landing area. The same record size hangar. And the same water towers.

Important for me is that one of those figures you see was my grandfather. I don’t know which one. I don’t know what his role was. But, 86 years later I have now walked the same ground he walked that day.

The memorial was placed on the spot Hindenburg’s gondola crashed in flames 50 years before.

I now have a connection to the man who provided one quarter of the DNA that makes me who I am. I have a couple uniform items that were his I received from my mom. My son has a bookcase my grandfather made for my mother. It was a poignant moment being there and not being able to comprehend the horror people saw that day.

The fire lasted 34 seconds and has spawned questions and conspiracy theories that have only slowly in the last few years fully been resolved.

Incredible Stuttgart Train Station

When I was a teenager in Stuttgart I enjoyed going to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) and watching trains and people. Magazines from the news kiosks helped me learn German. Years later I saw a picture of the Stuttgart station modeled in N Scale (1/160) by Wolfgang Frey. I like passenger trains in N Scale, so this intrigued me.

A train station is a large building, so even at 160th actual size it requires a lot of space. I was surprised to read in the German model railroad press that this incredible model was “in a secret location” and not open for visitors. I’m not one to let “not open for visitors” get in my way, but I never found any way to contract Wolfgang Frey (If I were able to repeat those days I would have gone through the editor of the magazines).

Fast forward to today. Googling last summer while planning a trip to Germany I discovered, sadly, Wolfgang Frey had died, but his work was saved. I learned he not only modeled the train station, but about 500(!) surrounding buildings. No selective compression. Everything. I also learned the model had been relocated from its “secret location” (unused subway space) in Stuttgart to a public location in nearby Herrenberg, just a short walk from the train station. The exhibit is called “Stellwerk S” – control center S.

I was impressed. My usually-doesn’t-care-much-for-train-stuff wife was impressed. My German friend Jürgen was impressed.

I was impressed. My usually-doesn’t-care-much-for-train-stuff wife was impressed. My German friend Jürgen was impressed. The level of detail is incredible. The scale of the area covered is incredible. So many recognizable scenes. Imagining the amount of time put into the project is difficult – “about one building per week.”

The plastic lens mount on my 18-105mm Nikon lens broke. That was the only lens I took on the trip. So, the pictures are limited to iPhone shots. Still, they are worth a look.

If you have an interest in Stuttgart, passenger trains, N Scale models, or just operating dioramas, Stellwerk S is well, well worth the visit and the nominal cost of entry. Model railroad club members get a discount!

https://www.stellwerk-s.de/